Thread Count
Generally speaking the higher the thread count of a cotton shirt, the softer and better feeling the fabric is. This is due to the use of finer cotton in higher thread count shirts. This same rule applies to things like bed sheets.
Heavy Fabric
High thread count does not always imply heavy fabric. When it comes to cotton shirts heaviness is more directly related to the ply of the shirt. Heavier shirts are often two-ply, meaning there are two layers of fabric. An Oxford shirt is traditionally two-ply and these can still feature a thread count in the 80s.
Cotton Quality
Not every cotton is equal, and this means that sometimes the quality of the cotton can be more important than the thread count. Egyptian cotton is widely regarded as one of the most luxurious cottons on the planet, but the highest quality cotton actually comes from Sea Island, Georgia.
Other Stuff
Now, this does not mean that every high quality shirt will be made of the best cotton or even have a high thread count. The overall look of the shirt is just as important. Examine the details: look at the placket construction, check the buttonholes, inspect the collars and cuffs. Avoid any shirt that has loose threads still attached or that shows puckering at the seams.
These should give you some points to ponder the next time you go shopping for shirts. Looking for these qualities will help insure that you make the right choice.
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